They’re conservative and it’s a message that’s almost anti-feminist.” The women in Succession don’t seem to have power and the clothes reflect that. Most of these people aren’t confident, and they’re second-guessing themselves. “When I look at Succession I see the clothes as just another character in a show filled with unlikeable people. “I’ve just returned from Paris and that’s not where fashion is headed, with wide shoulders, baggy pants, colour and prints.” “People look at Succession as the return of stealth wealth dressing, but I don’t see that,” Galambos says. At her Sydney boutique Parlour X, Galambos sells creative pieces from Jacquemus, Courrèges and Mugler to wealthy clients who baulk at the idea of a plain oatmeal turtleneck jumper. These unexpected fashion fans with fortunes are closer to the style zeitgeist than the Roys, according to luxury retailer Eva Galambos. Rupert Murdoch’s granddaughter Charlotte Freud is fond of wearing punk-inspired bomber jackets and goth girl dresses from Selkie to promote her music, released under the name Tiarlie. We definitely can’t wait to see what’s next for the house.Even members of the Murdoch family enjoy playing with fashion. This collaboration with Sacai demonstrates how a strong and clear aesthetic like that of Gaultier can be so intriguing when reframed with a fresh eye. Gaultier is known for blurring gender stereotypes, subverting conventional notions of sensuality, and empowering women in ways that were ahead of his time. Related article: Review Of Fendi Fall/Winter 2021 Couture Collection Jeans are pieced together to create a full skirt, and pinstripe suiting morphs into a puffer jacket, which, formed a playful bubble skirt when cinched by a matching corset. Other highlights include the upcycling of vintage denim and Abe’s twists on traditional tailoring, all reframed in Gaultier’s avant garde silhouettes. In Abe’s version the stripes are created with layers of contrasting satin and tulle, marrying her penchant for deconstruction with the Parisian aesthetic of imperfect perfection. ![]() The marinière was used by Gaultier as a tongue in cheek parody of Parisian cliche. The navy striped marinière shirt has permeated Jean Paul Gaultier’s DNA with countless incarnations in his collections, even in the ‘Le Male’ perfume bottle. Related article: These Accessories From The Sacai X Tomo Koizumi Collab Spark Joy In Our Hearts In Abe’s rendition, the cones now form part of the bustiers on Sacai’s iconic trench-inspired dresses, and gowns that seemed to be made from deconstructed MA1 nylon bombers. The conical bra corset, first introduced in Gaultier’s 1987 collection, ignited controversy and made music history, when Madonna wore a custom-made version during her 1990 Blond Ambition tour. ![]() The house’s iconic elements made perfect sense with Sacai’s streetwear aesthetics, which is perhaps not surprising as both Abe and Gaultier are known to extensively explore the juxtaposition of femininity and masculinity, albeit in very different ways. Related article: Haute Couture Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier’s Final Couture Show In Pictures Sacai also worked with Nike to produce two pairs of sneakers for the collection. Dubbed ‘Gaultier Paris by Sacai’ Abe also brought in her own collaborators, with Pierre Hardy lending his magic to footwear, as well as prints designed by tattoo artists Dr. However, Gaultier made his return this couture week with a new announcement: The house will invite a new creator to design the collection every season starting with Sacai’s designer Chitose Abe. ![]() Just days before Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2020 couture show in January last year, the designer revealed that it would be his final show.
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